I shot this video on how you can make your own fishing kayak drag leash. This comes in handy when there is some distance to your launch or you have to portage over or around wooded or rocky areas to get to your next fishing spot.
Here’s a tip I picked up a while back that I thought I’d share with you. Most of us experience line twist and the subsequent tangles, bird nests, and knots that we all hate. Knotted braid can be especially hard to untangle. Even harder when wet. Whenever my spinning reels end up with line twist, this is the method I use to get it out while on the water. You don’t have to wait until you get home or anything, being on the water is actually the best place to do it.
I got this email question from a subscriber and past kayak fishing guiding client.
Can you spare another minute of advice? I’m finding that my Jackson Coosa is a
little too big/cumbersome/heavy for what I need. It’s great once you get it on the
water but it’s a pain to load/unload on the vehicle (Suburban) and is hard to cart
down to a landing. I took it out on Sun at Kephart’s Landing on Goose Creek and it
just takes too long to get in the water. I’ve got rollers/cradles on the Suburban
roof which means 4 straps and I’ve got a cart with straps which didn’t work very
well. I think they sell a cart that fits into the scupper holes so maybe I’ll get
one of those. I guess it could fit in a cradle type roof carrier but it’s too big
and the car is too tall to easily lift it overhead into the cradles. It took more
than 45 min to cart it up from the creek and load it on the car.
My question is what kayak do you recommend or prefer? I would be using it mainly on
the upper Potomac and waters around here. It seems I need something I can carry,
can easily transport but is big enough to be comfortable, and is well-equipped.
With a smaller kayak I could even fit it inside the Suburban or could even haul two
smaller kayaks inside or on top.
Got any advice? Thanks.”
I think we all go through phases. We start out with little. Then we end up with a bunch of gear. Then it’s too heavy/cumbersome. Then we have to play the ultralight game. That’s true with the fishing gear, itself and all the accessories.
Actually, the Coosa is a great river boat that I’d recommend for the waters around where we live especially the Upper. And I think it’s pretty light without any gear on it. Getting it on a roof is another story. But, I can totally understand your concerns. That Kephart launch has exhausted me several times with and without a cart.
Let me start with the boat. A lighter boat will likely be shorter. That may not be a bad thing on the river, but I think you’ll find any boat less than 12 feet will be a pretty big compromise in tracking. You’ll be going side to side all the way upstream. The only shorter boat I’d recommend would be the Native Slayer Propel 10. I think this will be my next boat. Being peddle driven and having a rudder should make up for the tracking issue. I believe it is 57 lbs. The only concerns I have are the keel. If dragged, it could wear a hole in that spot. But, it sounds like your carting it mostly. The other is the placement of the rudder. In a river environment, I could see it getting beat up by rocks going over ledges and things. I hope future models will have the flip up rudder. http://amzn.to/1LkVpAQ. But, otherwise, excellent boat.
The scupper hole cart is not a bad idea. Just make sure it’s compatible with your’s as not all scuppers are in the same place. You may be able to get away without a strap doing that. There aren’t many ways around some kind of securing mechanism. There is also this one that uses sort of a leverage system with only one bungee on a hook. Just hook it on and pick up the bow and go. The weight and angle of the cart should hold the hull in place relatively well. I’m not certain of the compatibility with the width of a Coosa on this one though so you may want to double check that. http://amzn.to/1SInFPY
Now, getting it on top of the car. 4 straps is a lot. I’m assuming you do each of the two cradles and then bow and stern tie downs? If you have a roof rack, you should be able to get by with just the two straps across the width as long as they are cinched or ratcheted tight and connected to a secure part of the rack. I even got to a point where I would carry 2 kayaks on my truck rack with one 16 ft. ratchet strap per boat. I’d run it front bar side to side, diagonally over the hull of the boat to the back bar and then side to side and pull tight. The less you have to do that the more time you can save. But, 2 straps across the width is normal and shouldn’t take too much time.
For assisting getting it up there, there are several options.
Hullavator. This is the ultimate, but expensive. http://amzn.to/1SInFPY
Malone load assist. Similar, but about half the cost. http://amzn.to/1deYPHp
Strong arm. http://amzn.to/1J3BuUu
Loading bar. This one is neat as it allows you to side load and it slides away inside your cross bar. You’re only lifting about half the boat at a time. Put the bow up on the bar, lift the stern up onto the rack and settle into place to tie down. http://amzn.to/1KbqxU6
DIY approaches. Most of these are ways to go on through the front or back of your vehicle with some kind of homemade apparatus, usually PVC. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kayak+loader+suburban
And the last thing I can suggest is organization. If at all possible, try to get a little ready the night before. I got my whole system down to a 5 min. put in and 5 min. take out. It’s a kayak. No sense taking as long to launch a bass boat. I would have my pfd, rod holders, anchor, and dry bag in the front hatch at all times. I unstrap and take the boat off. I set it at the edge of the ramp or water. From the truck I get my kayak crate and rods chosen for the trip. Each is already organized with the baits and rods for where I’m going and what I’m fishing for from the night before. I put the crate in the tankwell and bungee it down. Rods in rod holders. Take out pfd, etc. Put it on. Stash my stuff in the dry bag and secure it. Secure my soft cooler behind the seat. Park the truck and I’m ready to go. I really only had 4 things to do in order to launch.
The only step you would need to add to that would be to strap on the kayak to the cart if that’s even necessary if you go with one of the two potentially strapless options. When at the water secure your cart to the boat and go.
I think you could get that down to an efficient system with a little practice and prep the night before if possible.
Ahh, the first smallmouth bass of the season caught. That’s a good feeling. I didn’t even realize it was the first until after I’d already been on the water some time. I just slipped right back into my natural routine.
The water level on the river has been high, as usual and expected in early Spring. I haven’t hardly had a single opportunity to put in on the Upper Potomac yet. But, because it was my birthday a few days ago (ugh), I had lots of Bass Pro gift cards to spend (yes!). So I went with Dad up to MD in the morning to the Arundel Mills Mall Bass Pro. I came out with about $180 worth of new gear. I wanted to help Dad get his first snakehead before I leave on our trip, but I didn’t think we would have time for that on this day. So we decided to hit Riverbend. My rationale was that the water downstream wouldn’t have as much current as other places on the Upper like Algonkian or further up around the mouth of the Goose Creek like my buddy, Marc, had fished the day before and said was pretty swift current. I had two strategies in mind. Either the bass would be in the shallows like many of the largemouth are right now. And I did catch a couple in shallows behind rocks making eddies, but I wanted to try the rock outcroppings in the river channel too.
I have not fished Riverbend since my last trip report from last Fall. I finally feel like I’ve started to really figure this area out. I think there is just such a unique mix of conditions and structures here that the bass’ behavior is rather unique. There are some very deep pools and large structure in the form of huge boulders and tree trunks. BUT, the areas that offer the best results for me are the rock outcroppings (with a little grass) that have a ledge system on the up and downstream sides. And the ledge system is parallel to the river flow, not perpendicular like you would usually think. On this day, the water was a little higher and there was some current so the majority of smallies seemed to hold on the downstream side in the eddies, but still within the ledges ready to ambush a bait going over top. Again, I can’t emphasize enough how important it seems, to me anyway, to get 90 degrees to these structures and pull your bait across.
I only planned on two baits today. A Ribit frog which they killed the last few times. But, maybe the clarity wasn’t good enough for them today. I used the frog on my Medium power, fast action, KFS 100 kayak fishing rod with 15 pound braid and a 6 foot 12 pound mono leader. But, no luck. I use the heavier mono or flouro leader (in this case mono because it floats) here because of the sharp ledge rock. If I get a big fish, and they dive right back in, I could get broken off immediately. Normally, for smallmouth, I use 8 pound flouro leader. But, again, the conditions dictate the technique here so I go a little heavier on the leader for that reason.
I immediately went to my next suspect in the pattern and that was the Koppers Live Target Shallow diving crankbait. This is what they hit right away. I picked up a couple small ones in the shallows, but went out to the river channel to try the rock outcrops and sure enough, got a couple of quick decent ones. I could tell I was onto a pattern. The reason I chose this bait is that it is a wake bait. It will only dive 6 inches or so. Maybe a foot if you really crank fast. So if the fish weren’t hitting the frog on top, I tried this bait which runs immediately subsurface. It has a wide wobble so if the clarity wasn’t great, maybe they could feel more in water disturbance. This particular bait is important because, although there are the deep pools, the end quickly and the ledges where the bass are hiding can be only 4 inches below the surface. So I was either running a true top water bait (frog) or this subsurface bait directly over those hiding spots. Even a crank bait that dives 2 or 3 feet probably would not be appropriate here for this technique. I paired this bait with my Medium light power, moderate action, KFS 300 swimbait/crankbait kayak fishing rod with 12 pound mono on a high speed 7.1:1 Quantum bait caster. This was just the right tool to get them out of there.
I wanted to get Dad on the pattern too, but didn’t have another Koppers in my tackle box. So I figured it’s more of the action than anything here and we went with the Mann’s Baby 1 Minus. And sure enough, he started hitting them too even though the color of his bait was not exactly the same as mine. In this case, it was more about action, the right depth, and water disturbance it seemed.
When all was said and done, I ended up with 12 even and Dad had 4. Not a bad trip for half a day. I was a little surprised to see the fish holding to those same spots at this time of year, but again, I think it’s the unique set of conditions that kind of dictates their behavior in this area somewhat. Another thing to note is that because of the shallow rocks and ledges we are pulling these fish out of, they are JUMPERS. It is cool and exciting, but a jumping fish is likely to throw your bait. It may take some additional skill and technique to keep the fish down as best you can until you get it to the boat. Switching directions and keeping SIDE pressure on the fish will help to keep them down and get more landed. If you pair that with the right action rod for the bait you are using and the right landing techniques, you’ll greatly reduce your fish coming unbuttoned before you can land.
Get out there and kayak fish Riverbend if you haven’t done so yet. If you have, go again and try these techniques.
If you kayak fish Riverbend park here in Northern Virginia, you know it’s a great park and there is a variety of structure and conditions there. From fast moving water with nice eddies upstream, to grass beds on the side channels, to giant boulders and tree trunks downstream.
Go immediately downstream to the various rock outcrops. Use a watermelon kick leg style frog and retrieve it rather quickly. Like the Stanley Ribbit Frog. Try to cast perpendicular across the ledges above and below the rock outcrops. The ones with grass seem to hold more fish. You’ll be casting towards the shores. Not downstream, not at an angle, get as perpendicular to them as possible and burn the frog over the top. Not so slow it’s barely moving, but not so fast that it is skipping or surfing. Give each rock outcrop 3-5 casts and if you haven’t got a blow up, float down to the next one. You can hit them all all the way down to the dam on the MD side and work back up. Don’t spend too long at each one.
If this sounds really detailed, it is. I’ve really dialed it in the last 4 or 5 times I’ve been there. Oh, and not much is happening in the morning. From around lunch or a little after right up until the sun goes behind the trees. After that everything shuts down. So it’s definitely a smaller window as the days get shorter and colder. But, give that a try on your next kayak fishing trip there, not many other people will be out there and you should have a great time.
The Fall kayak fishing season is upon us. The air and water temps are cooling down and we’re coming into a time anglers call the “Fall bite.”
It’s a great time of year as this can really stir up big bass, both large and smallmouth to binge and feed heavily and aggressively before Winter sets in. Bass are tending to really chase moving baits at this time of year so here are 5 good lure options to try.
Cover water with these lures, in various areas of the water column, and you’re likely to pick up some hungry Fall bass. Experiment with your retrieve, but tend toward the faster side of things and if the fish are there, it will pay off.